Memories of Ramadan in Mumbai, India
Ramadan in Mumbai was an eye-opening and mouth-watering experience for me, which I would like to share with you through the many photos I took.
I never imagined that so many people of all walks of life and faiths would celebrate Iftar, the breaking of the fast, so exuberantly and cheerfully on Mohammad Ali Road and the surrounding area. I would have thought that after all the hatred and violence spread on social media between Hindus and Muslims in India, people would avoid Muslim neighborhoods. Fortunately, I was proven wrong.
The whole atmosphere and area were so fascinating that I went there twice. First, on March 1, 2025, I took part in the #RamzanRamble (Ramadan is called Ramzan in India) food walk, organized by Khaki Tours. The walk lasted about two and a half hours, and I arrived home, completely overwhelmed. The second time, on March 7, 2025, I hired a taxi with a very friendly young Muslim driver. We drove to the Minara Masjid on Mohammad Ali Road. I wanted to see the beautifully lit mosque that caught my eye on Instagram, where countless videos about Iftar meals in Mumbai were posted.
Now, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. Enjoy!
Minara Masjid at Mohammad Ali Road, Mumbai, India
Iftar celebrations in the heart of the city
I’ll start the photo story with my second tour. It was after sunset, around 7 p.m., time for Iftar, the breaking of the fast, when I took these photos on March 7th last year. The area around the beautifully lit Minara Masjid on Mohammad Ali Road in South Mumbai had been transformed into a huge street food paradise.
The numerous pop-up stalls offered a variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian Iftar specialties from Indian Muslim cuisine.
These local non-alcoholic drinks are for refreshment. Their vibrant colors aroused my curiosity; perhaps the green drink is the non-alcoholic Absinthe I have heard about.
Saandal is an Indian dessert that is especially popular in Mumbai during Ramadan: a rice cake topped with a mild, sweet layer of cream.
Sunni Hamidiya Masjid, Ibrahim Rehmatullah Road, Pydhonie, Mumbai, India
From a distance, I could see another beautifully illuminated mosque. After extensive research on the internet, I found out its name: Sunni Hamidiya Masjid. This trip to the famous old Muslim quarter of South Mumbai was magical. I felt like I was in a story from One Thousand and One Nights.
An opulent Ramadan food walk
The #RamzanRamble food walk with Khaki Tours was my first encounter with Ramadan and Iftar celebrations in Mumbai. We strolled through the alleys of Mohammad Ali Road, Bhendi Bazaar, and Bohri Mohalla. We ate food that I had never tasted before. There were so many courses and an incredible variety - a truly opulent feast. My photos from March 1st of last year, only show a few of these courses.
Chicken Seekh Kebab with paratha (Indian bread), fresh mint leaves, onions and chutney: The Nawab Seekh Corner at Two Tank Junction was our first stop.
Indian iconic sweets: Gulab Jamun and Jalebi from the popular J.J. Jalebi counter.
I am standing in front of the old Imam Sharbathwala juice stall, known for its watermelon milk sherbet.
Hotel Salman Pulao is known for its aromatic Pulao, a one-pot rice dish with many different herbs and spices.
You can see part of our group and me at the Jilani restaurant in the Bohri Mohalla, eagerly awaiting the next course. For all of us, it was an exciting discovery of an unfamiliar part of the city.
Nalli Nihari is a rich, slow-cooked meat stew with bones and marrow, served with naan bread.
The Dawoodi Bhora Muslim community
This snapshot shows a group of Dawoodi Bohra Muslims wearing their traditional clothing, a long white kurta and an embroidered topi (cap). Bhori Mohalla, in particular, where we strolled, is an area shaped by the Dawoodi Bohra Muslim community, its cuisine, and culture. The Dawoodi Bohras belong to an Ismaili branch of Shia Islam and came to India from Egypt via Yemen. They are known as successful traders and business people.
Islam is the largest minority religion in Mumbai with around 20.65% followers, compared to the majority religion Hinduism with around 66% followers. The Muslim population of Mumbai is manifold, even within the Sunni majority.
A sweet end of the Ramadan food walk
First, we watched the preparation, then we enjoyed Malpua, a deep-fried sweet pan cake served with Rabdi, thickened milk, at the legendary Shabbir’s Tawakkal Sweets restaurant in Bohri Mohalla.
This is where I end my photo story, but the #RamzanRamble walk wasn’t yet over. We sampled more delicacies.
Ramadan in Mumbai was more than only a culinary experience
Although, as a non-Muslim, I spent Ramadan feasting rather than fasting, these excursions were far more than just culinary experiences. Walking through the historic Muslim quarter of South Mumbai, mingling with people from different backgrounds, and breathing in the vibrant, festive atmosphere, I immersed myself deeply in the soul of this magnificent, diverse city.
Postscript: On my way home from my second trip, as we drove past a church, the Muslim taxi driver asked me if I knew the Basilica Mount St. Mary in Bandra, a suburb of Mumbai. He praised and highly recommended it. I was pleasantly surprised. Yes, I admit, I love the idea of India as a pluralistic country, even if it can sometimes be quite challenging.
All photos Copyright© Chitra-Lekha Sarkar
More about Mumbai:
My friend Faredoon Bhujwala, better known as Dodo, introduced me to Khaki Tours. Due to his deep passion for his hometown of Mumbai, he became a tour guide and ambassador for the company. Check out my film about Dodo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY74dzgwjP0
Christianity is another fascinating facet of Mumbai, India. Read my blog: https://lekhasarkar.com/blog/2025/4/27/the-christian-heritage-of-mumbai-india-1