The Christian heritage of Mumbai, India (1)
Mumbai is one of my favorite cities in India. I love its cosmopolitan atmosphere and the many people of different cultures and religions who have come here over time from different parts of the world and from all over India, making this city so magnificent, vibrant, interesting, and exciting. Last but not least, Mumbai is very dear to my heart because I was born there (more on that in part two).
This cross stands on Chimbai Road in Bandra, Mumbai, India
I usually follow my Hindu roots when I'm in India, but during my recent stay in Mumbai, I began to explore its Christian heritage (if you want to know why, read part three of this series). Although Christians are a minority (about 3.45 percent), I learned that there are many churches of various denominations in the megacity. Some are even visited not only by Christians, but also by Hindus and Muslims.
A journey to the famous churches of Bandra, Mumbai
Bandra, a beautiful coastal suburb of Mumbai, now home to film stars and many other celebrities, is particularly known for its Christian heritage, with churches, chapels, shrines and crosses found everywhere. So I took a taxi from Colaba in South Mumbai, where my hotel was located, and after about a half-hour drive, I reached my first stop, the famous Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, popularly called Mount St. Mary Church.
Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount in Bandra, Mumbai, India
Bandra was originally a tiny fishing and farming village. In the early 16th century, it came under Portuguese rule. A period of Christianization began. Some of the Portuguese missionaries were quite successful, and Catholicism spread. To this day, Bandra still has a lot of colonial Portuguese flair, which I found enchanting. Only at the end of the 18th century Bandra became part of the English territory. British influence changed the architecture, for example, of the Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount. I was quite surprised when I saw the Neo-Gothic structure.
Shrine of Mother Mary with Child Jesus in Mount St. Mary Church in Bandra, Mumbai, India
Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, Bandra
The Roman Catholic Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount is one of the most popular churches in Mumbai. It welcomes around a million visitors annually. The main attraction is the shrine of the Holy Mother, which draws people of all faiths. They believe in the healing power of Mother Mary to answer their prayers and grant their wishes.
Mount St. Mary Church, as it is commonly called, is situated on a hill overlooking the Arabian Sea. The church has a turbulent history, having been destroyed and rebuilt several times. Its current edifice is the fourth and was constructed in 1904 during the British Bombay era. The Basilica, however, is much older. Its origins date back to the 16th century, when Jesuits brought a wooden statue of Our Lady from Portugal to Mumbai. Learn more on its website: https://www.mountmarybasilicabandra.in/
As at all pilgrimage sites, there were many stalls selling colorful candles, figures of Mary and Jesus, rosaries, and other religious items, as well as flowers, snacks, and much more. What was completely new to me, however, were wax objects in the shape of houses, cars, babies, and all sorts of body parts such as legs, hands, bellies, teeth or others.
A vendor explained to me that people choose a figure that corresponds to their suffering or request and bring it to the altar in the church, hoping that Mother Mary will help them.
Oratory of Our Lady of Fatima opposite Mount St. Mary Church in Bandra, Mumbai, India
Opposite the Basilica is the Oratory of Our Lady of Fatima, inaugurated in 1954. Fatima is the name of a village in Portugal where a miracle occurred in 1917. Virgin Mary appeared there to three shepherd children.
St. Andrew’s Church, Bandra
St. Andrew’s Church in Bandra, Mumbai, India
My next stop was not far from the basilica. The same taxi took me down Mount Mary Road to Hill Road No. 115, near the sea. There is St. Andrew's Church, one of the oldest churches in Mumbai. This Roman Catholic church was built in 1575 by Portuguese Jesuits. It has had an eventful history, surviving natural disasters such as a cyclone that tore off the entire roof in 1618, as well as political turmoil. You can find out more about the history of the church and its great significance for the Christian community of Bandra on its website: https://standrewchurch.in/
St. Andrew has retained its original Portuguese architectural style despite several renovations and repairs. With the old cemetery surrounding the church, it has a solemn aura to me. Unfortunately, it was closed and I was unable to enter the church.
The spirit of Bandra, Mumbai
From St. Andrews, I strolled north through Chimbai Village, a lively and picturesque Koli fishing settlement. I am fascinated by the stories about the Koli fisherfolk, the first inhabitants of the seven islands that have merged into present-day Mumbai. Many of them converted to Christianity during the Portuguese colonial era. On Chimbai Road which belongs to the parish of St. Andrew, I passed many crosses with statues of Jesus or shrines to Mother Mary, before which worshippers offered a short prayer.
Shrine of Our Lady of Velankanni on Chimbai Road in Bandra, Mumbai, India
This wasn’t my first time in Bandra; I had been there before. But I didn’t know much about the history of the place. On this trip, I gained a deep sense of Bandra’s charm and spirit, even though I caught only a glimpse of its Christian heritage. There are more churches and religious sites to discover.
All photos and videos © Chitra-Lekha Sarkar
Another glimpse into the life of the Koli fisherfolk here in my YouTube-Video “Mumbai - Sea - Fish - Art”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEQT8pAbBD0