The Buddhist Kanheri Caves in Mumbai, India
The Kanheri Caves are in the middle of the Sanjay Gandhi National Park in Mumbai, India.
Buddhism used to be a kind of western lifestyle religion for me (please forgive me...). I had quite a bit of resistance to it. I had forgotten that it originated in India and existed there for about 1000 years before the Buddha's teachings largely disappeared from India at the end of the 12th century.
For me, the rediscovery of Buddhism in India began when I came across “The Dhammapada” (a collection of sayings of the Buddha in verse form, a masterpiece of early Buddhist literature), introduced and translated by Eknath Easwaran, in a bookshop in Kolkata. Since then, I have become more and more interested in Buddhism, spiritually and historically.
Maybe because this only happened recently, it took me so long to visit the Buddhist Kanheri Caves in Mumbai, even though I have been to this megacity many times.
Kanheri Caves - one of the largest and earliest Buddhist cave complexes in India
The Kanheri Caves are situated in the middle of the Sanjay Gandhi National Park with its dense forests and wild animals, such as leopards. Luckily, all I encountered there were bold monkeys jumping around and stealing my lunch.
The name Kanheri derives from Kanhagiri in Prakrit or Krishnagiri in Sanskrit which means black hill or black mountain. This refers to the surface colour of the rock, which consists of black basalt.
The 109 rock-cut caves are part of a large monastic complex, dating back to the first century BCE or even earlier. For over 1000 years, monks from various Buddhist schools and traditions lived here, from the early Hinayana to the later Mahayana period. Interestingly, the Kanheri cave complex was located near an ancient trade route.
The over 50 inscriptions found are important and provide information about the history of the region and the monastery. Two of them are written in Persian Pahlevi script and date from the 11th century.
Cave 34: Buddha sculpture
Most of the rock-cut caves are Buddhist viharas, where the monks lived, studied and meditated. The larger caves are chaityas, prayer halls, where the monks gathered to worship. Many of the caves are decorated with masterfully carved sculptures of Buddha and Bodhisattvas, reliefs, pillars and stupas, while others, the cells in which the monks lived, are simpler with benches carved into the rock along the walls.
Cave 2: Details of a wall surrounding the stupa with Buddha and Bodhisattva sculptures
Meaning of the Mudras, the gestures of the Buddha sculptures
I have noticed that many Buddhas and Bodhisattvas (I can't tell the difference yet as I am only a beginner in the field of Buddhist art) stand with the right hand lowered and the palm facing outwards. I learned that this is Varada Mudra, the gesture of giving blessings or charity. Other Buddhas sit with both hands in front of their chest, tips of the index finger and the thumps touching. This is Dharmachakra Mudra, the gesture of teaching.
Cave 2: Stupa with surrounding walls of carved Buddhas and Bodhisattvas
“Conquer anger through gentleness, unkindness through kindness, greed through generosity, and falsehood by truth. Be truthful; do not yield to anger. Give freely, even if you have but little. The gods will bless you.”
Cave 3: Entrance to the Great Chaitya
The Great Chaitya - the most impressive prayer hall
When I entered Cave 3, the Great Chaitya, I was stunned. It is the most impressive and ornate of the Kanheri caves. The prayer hall is huge and has 34 pillars in two rows, some with ornamented capitals. At the far end is the inner sanctum, the shrine, a plain, unadorned stupa almost 5 meters high. The ceiling is vaulted. Despite the many visitors, I found the atmosphere in the chaitya to be very solemn.
Buddha sculpture on the verandah of Cave 3
The walls of the verandah of Cave 3 are decorated with fine sculptures of donor couples, flanking either side of the entrance to the prayer hall. You can see part of such a sculpture in the second of my photos below. I was particularly fascinated by the many small, delicate carvings of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas and others.
“Don’t try to build your happiness on the unhappiness of others. You will be enmeshed in a net of hatred.”
The Kanheri Caves - an overwhelming experience
It was overwhelming, the magnificent landscape, the unique atmosphere, all the fascinating Buddhist art and of course not forgetting the monkeys. They were never far away, they both amused and irritated me...
I didn't manage to visit all 109 caves or really appreciate the ingenious water system of which the Kanheri cave complex is known for. I didn’t expect there to be so much to explore, I'll have to come back.
Cave 41: Buddha in teaching gesture
My rediscovery of Buddhism in India continues, perhaps I will also visit the famous places such as Bodh Gaya, where Gautama Buddha attained his enlightenment. The place is located in the Indian state of Bihar, which is not far from Kolkata, where my paternal family lives.
“Conquest breeds hatred, for the conquered live in sorrow. Let us be neither conqueror nor conquered, and live in peace and joy.”
Cave 4: Stupa with carved Buddha in teaching gesture
Dr. B.R. Ambedkar - reviver of Buddhism in India
Several attempts were made to revive Buddhism in India. The most significant was undertaken by Dr. B.R. Ambedkar (1851 – 1956), lawyer, social-reformer, leader of the Dalits (formerly known as untouchables, who are at the bottom of the Hindu caste hierarchy) and the father of the Indian constitution. He was a Dalit himself.
In October 1956, he converted to Buddhism along with 500’000 others in Nagpur, a city in the Indian state of Maharashtra. For him Buddhism, unlike Hinduism, was based on equality. In his treatise “Revolution and Counter Revolution in Ancient India” Ambedkar wrote: “Buddhism was a revolution. It was as great a Revolution as the French Revolution. Though it began as religious revolution, it became more than a religious revolution. It became a Social and Political Revolution.”
I visited Dr. B.R. Ambedkar’s much revered memorial site, known as Chaitya Bhoomi in Mumbai. See my YouTube-video “A Buddha from Chaitya Bhoomi”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4vmDCD_q4s
Dr. B.R. Ambedkar with Buddha at Rajgruha, his house in Mumbai, India
All photos and videos © Chitra-Lekha Sarkar